Today we’re focusing on gussets, an important part of our dress shirt construction. First, a quick definition: the gusset is the little piece of triangular fabric sewn in where the side seam meets the hem of the shirt. That’s it.
Gussets are just one aspect of shirt construction that we really care about and we think set our shirts apart. Just like our collar interlining and single-needle stitching, gussets contribute to the quality and longevity of your shirt. They add extra strength to a high-stress area which protect the seams from tearing. Most brands don’t use gussets because they involve a difficult and time-consuming sewing technique, but we find this step is extra important in designing a shirt that fits well and holds up over time.
All of our shirts feature gussets (you won’t find them in our washed casuals because they’re more relaxed overall), typically in a contrasting fabric. When you wear your shirt untucked – we cut our shirts so the tails will fall just below your waist and won’t leave you with ill-fitting #shirtdress syndrome – the contrast gussets add just a little extra style to your outfit. Plus it’s a subtle hint to let other shirt nerds out there know that you’re serious about your shirts. Our contrast gussets are also one of the easy ways you can spot a H&C shirt on another guy.
We hope “The More You Know” series is serving as a resource for you in learning about shirt-making and style. Question about how to style a cutaway collar or one of our gingham shirts? Let us know on twitter!