The History Of Menswear Told Through NYPL’S Digital Collection: Part 8

Earlier this year the New York Public Library shared 180,000 prints, maps, manuscripts, and much more in a digital public domain collection for the very first time. In it, we unearthed menswear ads from over one hundred years ago. In this series, we explore them. Discover part eight below, and find the other parts here in case you missed them.

Gentleman’s Shirt 1860

 

A Gentleman's Shirt

“These cross plaits are very much in vogue among young men,” is something we’ve never found ourselves saying. But there’s plenty else that our men’s dress shirts today have in common with the recommendations in this guide for men who still did their own sewing in 1860.

The round upright collar highlighted in this piece is similar in some ways to our banded collar, often called a “Mandarin Collar” or “Nehru Collar”. It’s one of our newest collars and is basically a slimmer collar band, without a collar blade or fold to the collar. We use this collar in one of our more formal shirts, the Wesley, cut from 120 yarn count poplins and mother of pearl buttons. But what makes it unique is that it’s such a versatile collar, with the ability to be worn more formally, or incorporated into more everyday designs.

Furthermore, the square wristbands showcased align in some ways with our French cuff, our most formal cuff. Our French cuffs are twice as long as our regular cuffs, are folded back on themselves and closed with cuff links. They have a very pronounced look, and we usually pair them with our more debonair collar styles or formal shirts.

What features would you add to a shirt you were sewing?

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